top of page

Tokyo Dream: A Fujifilm X100V Film Recipe (In-Camera JPEG + Lightroom/RAW Guide)

  • Writer: Edward Leung
    Edward Leung
  • 6 minutes ago
  • 5 min read

Split before/after of Kyoto’s Golden Pavilion reflected in a pond, with FUJIFILM X100V RECIPE TOKYO DREAM text.
Fujifilm X100V Tokyo Dream Recipe Transforms Scenery: A stunning before-and-after comparison showcases the dramatic enhancement of a traditional Japanese building, using classic chrome settings for a dreamlike effect.

Split before/after of a red Japanese pagoda roof under blue sky, labeled FUJIFILM X100V RECIPE TOKYO DREAM.
"Vibrant architectural transformation using the Fujifilm X100V 'Tokyo Dream' recipe: a captivating comparison of before and after shots, highlighting the subtle yet impactful shift in hues and contrast."

Split before/after of a calm lake and bridge under bare trees, labeled FUJIFILM X100V RECIPE TOKYO DREAM, Classic Chrome, DR200.
"Experience the serene transformation of a lakeside view with the 'Tokyo Dream' filter for Fujifilm X100V, showcasing a subtle shift from vibrant blue hues to a soft, dream-like atmosphere."

Three frames from Kyoto in March — a quiet pond in Inokashira, a five-story pagoda cutting into a hard blue sky, and Kinkaku-ji sitting still on the water. All three went through Tokyo Dream, a warm, desaturated Classic Chrome recipe built for golden hour and soft evening light. This is the full write-up: the in-camera Fujifilm JPEG recipe, how to dial it in on an X-series body, and the Lightroom/RAW equivalent if you'd rather work from RAW.

The full before/after carousel for this set is also on Instagram.

Shoot it in-camera: the Fujifilm JPEG recipe

Classic Chrome is the starting point — it's already a little desaturated and punchy on its own, which makes it a good base for a muted, cinematic look. This recipe pulls it further toward warm shadows and a soft highlight roll-off.

Setting

Value

Notes

Film Simulation

Classic Chrome

Desaturated, film-like base with good contrast

Dynamic Range

DR200

Preserves highlight and shadow detail in harder light

Highlight Tone

-1

Softens highlights, gentler roll-off

Shadow Tone

-1

Lifts shadows slightly without going flat

Color

-2

Reduces saturation for the muted, cinematic feel

Sharpness

-2

Softens the image toward a more analog look

Noise Reduction

-4

Minimizes noise while keeping fine detail

Grain Effect

Weak, Small

Subtle film grain, not heavy-handed

Color Chrome Effect

Weak

Deepens color in saturated areas without overdoing it

Color Chrome FX Blue

Weak

Subtly enhances sky gradients — X-Trans 4 bodies and later

White Balance

Auto, R +2 / B -4

Warms the image, slight magenta push for golden hour

ISO

Auto (160–6400)

Adjusts to lighting; keep a floor around ISO 320 so DR200 stays available

Exposure Comp.

-1/3 to -2/3

Slight underexposure deepens color and mood

How to dial this into your X-series body

Menu names below are for the X100V; the same settings exist under similar names on most recent X-series bodies (X-T4/T5, X-Pro3, X-S10/20, X-E4). Color Chrome FX Blue is X-Trans 4-and-later only — skip it on older sensors and the look still holds up fine.

  1. IQ menu → Film Simulation → Classic Chrome.

  2. IQ menu → D Range → DR200. Note this needs a minimum ISO of 320 (Auto ISO with a DR-Priority setting handles this automatically on newer bodies).

  3. IQ menu → Tone Curve → Highlight -1, Shadow -1.

  4. IQ menu → Color → -2, then Sharpness → -2, then Noise Reduction → -4.

  5. IQ menu → Grain Effect → Weak, Small.

  6. IQ menu → Color Chrome Effect → Weak, and Color Chrome FX Blue → Weak (if available).

  7. IQ menu → White Balance → Auto (or Auto White Priority), then dial the WB Shift to R: +2, B: -4.

  8. Set Exposure Compensation to -1/3 to -2/3 depending on the scene — deeper for bright midday, lighter for overcast.

  9. Save the whole thing to a Custom Preset slot (C1–C7) so it's one dial-turn away next time, instead of rebuilding it from the IQ menu each session.

Shooting notes

  • DR200 only engages above a minimum ISO (usually 320) — if you're shooting base ISO in flat light, you may not get the full highlight protection unless Auto ISO is handling it.

  • This recipe leans toward golden hour and soft, overcast light. In harsh midday sun the shadow lift can look a little muddy — worth dropping Shadow Tone back to 0 in that case.

  • Because Color and Sharpness are both pulled down, avoid heavy in-camera crops if you plan to print large — there's less to work with at the pixel level.

  • If a scene has a lot of clean blue sky, Color Chrome FX Blue does more work than it looks like on the LCD — it reads better on a calibrated screen than in bright sunlight preview.

If you shoot RAW: the Lightroom equivalent

Same visual target, built from Adobe Color as a neutral base rather than starting from a film simulation.

Shooting RAW and want the shortcut? Download the Tokyo Dream Lightroom preset (.zip, .xmp inside) and drop it straight into your Lightroom presets folder — covers the full RAW recipe below, white balance left as-shot so it works across scenes.

Setting

Value

Notes

Profile

Adobe Color

Neutral starting point

Exposure

-0.30

Matches the slightly underexposed mood

Contrast

+15

Subtle punch

Highlights

-40

Recovers bright areas, softens the roll-off

Shadows

+30

Reveals shadow detail without flattening

Whites

-10

Controls the brightest points

Blacks

+10

Prevents crushed blacks

Temperature

+10

Adds warmth

Tint

+5

Subtle magenta push

Vibrance

-15

Reduces saturation selectively

Saturation

-5

Slight overall reduction

Clarity

+5

Light mid-tone contrast

Dehaze

+5

Improves contrast in hazy air

Vignette

-10

Subtle edge darkening

Tone curve

A gentle S-curve: highlights and lights nudged down slightly, darks and shadows nudged up — the muted, cinematic contrast that carries the whole look.

HSL / Color Mixer

  • Red: Hue +5, Saturation -10

  • Orange: Hue +5, Saturation -10

  • Yellow: Hue -10, Saturation -15

  • Green: Hue -10, Saturation -15

  • Aqua: Hue +5, Saturation -10

  • Blue: Hue +10, Saturation -15, Luminance -5

  • Purple: Hue +5, Saturation -10

  • Magenta: Hue +5, Saturation -10

Split toning

  • Highlights: Hue 50, Saturation 5 (warm yellow/orange)

  • Shadows: Hue 220, Saturation 5 (cool blue)

  • Balance: 0

Detail

  • Sharpening: Amount 40, Radius 1.0, Detail 25, Masking 0

  • Noise Reduction: Luminance 10, Detail 50, Contrast 0, Color 25, Color Detail 50, Smoothness 50

Calibration

  • Red Primary: Hue +5, Saturation 0

  • Green Primary: Hue -5, Saturation 0

  • Blue Primary: Hue +5, Saturation 0

The three frames

Inokashira Park pond — still water, late-afternoon light, the kind of scene DR200 and the lifted shadows were built for.

The five-story pagoda — hard blue sky and a graphic silhouette; this is where Color Chrome FX Blue earns its keep.

Kinkaku-ji — the golden pavilion's reflection sitting flat on the water under a hazy sky; the desaturated Classic Chrome base keeps the gold from blowing out into orange.

Getting it right without the settings in front of you

If you're out shooting and can't remember every number: Classic Chrome, DR200, everything pulled down a notch or two (color, sharpness, tone), a small amount of grain, and a slight warm white balance shift. That combination is the whole recipe — the rest is fine-tuning.

Comments


© 2026 after55ed. All Rights Reserved. | Capturing life through the lens.

bottom of page